Mount Lorette: South Ridge Alpine Route II-5.4

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A couple days ago Mitch and I tackled Mount Lorette’s South Ridge.  Located in Kanaskis Country at 2469m, this Alpine Route is a Canadian Rockies Classic.  Mount Lorette is often referred to as an intro route to the Alpine world of climbing.  That sounded perfect for a summer start.

Summer hasn’t quite arrived yet in the Bow Valley, as Spring is clinging on, thus crossing Kanaskis River was out.  We parked farther down the road and rode our bicycles down a  descent trail.  We do not have mountain bikes, thus we took our touring bicycles, which fared quite well.

Despite avoiding Kanaskis River, we still have to navigate a creek crossing before heading up the slope to the ridge.  Some parties state this is the “crux pitch.”  We managed to find a pretty descent log to walk across.

I have to admit, we didnt pick the best day to climb.  There was still some snow hanging out on the ridge daunting us……. humming and hawing was had before we even started.  What really made the day spicy was the wind.  Not just a gentle breeze but full on torrential winds.  It played with our heads and certainly had force against our bodies.  The wind pushed and pulled me at various points adding significantly to the experience.

The climbing itself was pretty low-key, deserving of a 5.4 grade.  We roped up for the chimmney section, as well as the infamous crux pitch.  Mitch lead the crack of death- the gap, which is pretty exposed.  That appears to the be the theme of the ridge, pretty good climbing with a lot of exposure.  I did not take many pictures on this trip.

After the summit we continued on the North ridge to the unnamed summit and started our descent.  I would reccomend this way down, as other parties have had to navigate cliffs started right from Lorette.

A superb start to the season.


One thought on “Mount Lorette: South Ridge Alpine Route II-5.4

  1. Just did this route yesterday. A really nice airy feel to it for sure! The ‘crack of death’ was definitely the highlight… I’m pretty sure I started talking to myself when I went over it. Keep the adventures coming!

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